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Bathroom Remodeling
To renovate or add a bathroom, you can be sure that you will have to contact plumbing, electrical, carpentry, tiling, and HVAC experts. You can contract the job yourself (see “Be Your Own Project Manager,” page 90). You’ll also need to hire a contractor who specializes in bathroom renovation and building or a professional kitchen and bath designer to help you determine the best use of space. If you are adding a bathroom extension to your house, an architect specializing in additions can show you the best ways to extend off of an existing room. See Chapter 5 for tips on working with architects. Depending on the details and finishes you choose and the size of the bathroom, a surface face-lift (new sink or vanity, faucet, and flooring) can be done for as little as $2,500 or less if you do some of the work yourself, like replacing the faucet or installing the floor. A total gutting can cost as much as $30,000 and much, much more. Whatever level of renovation you choose, when it comes to bathroom upgrades, throwing money into the drain (and the shower, flooring, lighting, and cabinets) is a wise investment!

Assess Your Space
Before a hammer hits the wall, the first thing a contractor or kitchen and bath designer does is look at what you’ve got so the two of you can decide where you can go. Assessing your bathroom is the first step in making smart changes.

Ventilation
Older bathrooms often have inadequate ventilation systems. Replace noisy, inefficient bathroom fans with modern, quiet versions. Make sure they vent to the outside. If your bathroom doesn’t have a fan, install one.

Plumbing and electric
It’s a good idea to have a plumber and electrician help you evaluate what you’ve got (and what you’re missing). Here’s what to consider: • Is the electrical service adequate for the number of outlets and circuits required and for future expansion? If not, plan on adding outlets on both sides of vanities or sinks. Equip outlets around sinks with ground-fault circuit interrupters to prevent shocks (see page 50 for more information on GFCIs).
• Does the existing plumbing work well? Is there adequate water pressure? Do the drains flow quickly? Check out Chapter 3 for how to deal with low pressure (page 54).
• Are there any leaks or is there evidence of water damage near or around pipes? Fix or replace them right away. Leaky pipes will damage new materials.
• Are any pipes made from lead or galvanized steel (both common in houses built before 1950)? If so, replace them. Lead piping and corroded metals might contaminate the water and eventually cause other problems like clogs, cracks, and breaks. You don’t want to deal with that!